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D'lite Build Questions...Please help
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Paultergeist
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Joined: 19 Dec 2006
Posts: 177
Location: San Diego, CA

PostPosted: Mon Jan 25, 2010 10:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

james21789 wrote:
Wow! thanks so much y'all, it really means a lot. My boards look like trash so I will fix them up for you. I live close to USC, pretty much right where the 10 meets the 110, and I never mind making the trek to SM. Are y'all available this weekend? When would be a good time? It really is simply a matter of whatever is most convenient for you. I have class during the day mon-thurs but other than that am entirely flexible.


I am relieved to see that this is happening. Angelo and John -- really good of you guys to step up and help James out like this. I myself am farther away here in San Diego, but consider me a back-up option if circumstances change drastically.
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hydroboy40
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Joined: 12 Apr 2008
Posts: 105
Location: Seattle

PostPosted: Mon Jan 25, 2010 9:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

the guys might want you to leave everything as is-you cant learn anything from this if you undo it all! :)ask them first(pm)
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james21789
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Joined: 10 Jul 2009
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 28, 2010 5:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Anyone have any tips for straightening bent leads?
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bluesfendermanblues
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Joined: 29 Oct 2008
Posts: 15

PostPosted: Fri Jan 29, 2010 12:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

james21789 wrote:
Anyone have any tips for straightening bent leads?


Use your pliers to straighten them out, they don't usually don't break off.
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james21789
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Joined: 10 Jul 2009
Posts: 100

PostPosted: Sat Feb 06, 2010 8:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey everyone-

I'm trying to order these replacement parts:

(3) 270pf snubbers on v2
(1) 1K/3W metal oxide resistor on the filter board
(1) 22K/3W metal oxide resistor on the filter board
(1) 2K2/3W metal oxide resistor on the filter board
(2) 1K8 resistors on the power tube sockets
(1) 1uf capacitor on the presence control
(1) 10mm 100k trim pot (OD Trimmer)
(1) Vishay/Dale 1/2Watt 221kohms resistor (plates)
(1) Vishay/Dale 1/2Watt 182komhs resistor (plates)
(1) Vishay/Dale 1/2Watt 150komhs resistor (plates)
(1) Vishay/Dale 1/2Watt 121kohms resistor (plates)
(7) Diodes


However, I'm running into some difficulties locating the parts on the web. I've been checking Mouser, but there are so many different parts I do not know which one I need. I don't know if anyone has the part numbers for mouser or another website, but any advice would be appreciated.

Additionally, I'm trying to get some new wire. It's my understanding that I should be using 20AWG for certain parts, and 18AWG for other areas. Additionally, I know some areas require 600V rated wire, but I am unclear where exactly these areas are.

Thanks everyone,

James
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Tone_Merc
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Joined: 17 Mar 2009
Posts: 193
Location: NE NC

PostPosted: Sun Feb 07, 2010 6:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

james21789 wrote:
Hey everyone-

I'm trying to order these replacement parts:

(3) 270pf snubbers on v2
(1) 1K/3W metal oxide resistor on the filter board
(1) 22K/3W metal oxide resistor on the filter board
(1) 2K2/3W metal oxide resistor on the filter board
(2) 1K8 resistors on the power tube sockets
(1) 1uf capacitor on the presence control
(1) 10mm 100k trim pot (OD Trimmer)
(1) Vishay/Dale 1/2Watt 221kohms resistor (plates)
(1) Vishay/Dale 1/2Watt 182komhs resistor (plates)
(1) Vishay/Dale 1/2Watt 150komhs resistor (plates)
(1) Vishay/Dale 1/2Watt 121kohms resistor (plates)
(7) Diodes


However, I'm running into some difficulties locating the parts on the web. I've been checking Mouser, but there are so many different parts I do not know which one I need. I don't know if anyone has the part numbers for mouser or another website, but any advice would be appreciated.

Additionally, I'm trying to get some new wire. It's my understanding that I should be using 20AWG for certain parts, and 18AWG for other areas. Additionally, I know some areas require 600V rated wire, but I am unclear where exactly these areas are.

Thanks everyone,

James


Option 1: PM me you email addy and I can send you a Mouser BOM, you still need to obtain wire.

Option 2: http://tubedepot.com/

James, here's where I get my wire and balanced PI tubes from. I normally use 20AWG telfon and then high temp 18AWG PVC for the heaters. Although, awhile back I did pick some 20AWG PVC to try, I would get the cheaper 20AWG, 4ft in the applicable colors. I would get 4 feet of 18AWG hi temp PVC for the heaters as well.

Any additional items you need you can get from there as well. You can use 2W metal oxide resistors on the power board. I would get an additional 2.2k and a 3.3k as well,use these in case you need to tweak the first resistor(1k)string voltage. You can use the 1W carbon films on the grids and other places in the signal chain.

http://tubedepot.com/wire.html

http://tubedepot.com/d-1n4007.html

http://tubedepot.com/r-294.html

http://tubedepot.com/bp-biaspot.html


If you PM me your address, I'll send you the Dale RN65 plate resistors, 270pf snubbers and a 1uf pres cap.

Mike
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Tone_Merc
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Joined: 17 Mar 2009
Posts: 193
Location: NE NC

PostPosted: Sun Feb 07, 2010 5:39 pm    Post subject: BOM Reply with quote

James, check your email.

Mike
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phalanges
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Joined: 31 Jul 2007
Posts: 184
Location: In the water

PostPosted: Sun Feb 07, 2010 10:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've got some 20 gauge teflon from Apex jr.
Depends how much you need but I have a few feet.
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james21789
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Joined: 10 Jul 2009
Posts: 100

PostPosted: Mon Feb 08, 2010 1:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great! Thanks, Mike, for making this process a breeze. The orders are in, should receive the new components this week (hopefully). I went ahead and ordered the snubbers and plates through mouser since they were already on the BOM, but thanks for the offer, Mike!

Updates soon.

-j
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james21789
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 08, 2010 1:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

P.S. Thanks, Phalanges, but I just ordered some new wire, so I should be set. Thanks for the offer!
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james21789
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Joined: 10 Jul 2009
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 10, 2010 3:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Would you guys recommend doing fender style heaters before soldering the other pins on the sockets or after?

Thanks,

-j
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hydroboy40
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Joined: 12 Apr 2008
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Location: Seattle

PostPosted: Wed Feb 10, 2010 9:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would go with whatever angelo or john recommend to you-you will be building with thier supervision? Smile
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james21789
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Joined: 10 Jul 2009
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 18, 2010 1:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So the 1.8K resistors I received from mouser look different than my old "typical" carbon film resistors. These new ones are "2W 1.8K speer power resistors." Will they work on my power tube sockets?
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Tone_Merc
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Joined: 17 Mar 2009
Posts: 193
Location: NE NC

PostPosted: Thu Feb 18, 2010 5:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

james21789 wrote:
So the 1.8K resistors I received from mouser look different than my old "typical" carbon film resistors. These new ones are "2W 1.8K speer power resistors." Will they work on my power tube sockets?


Yes of course, thats why I picked them. I have been using Speer KOA carbon film resistors for years.

FWIW, Moss uses those in BN builds as gridstoppers and in the signal path as well.
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james21789
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 18, 2010 1:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Okay thanks, I figured they were okay, just wanted to double check.

Last night I took apart my main board...aside from solder sucking and wicking, what should I use to clean the board? Or is this uneccessary?

Thanks,

-j
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Structo
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Joined: 30 Oct 2007
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Location: Salem, OR

PostPosted: Tue Feb 23, 2010 1:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you have a lot of flux stains take a Q tip and dip it in alcohol and rub the flux, it should come off.
I use pure denatured alcohol but isopropanol will work, just not as fast.

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angelodp
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Joined: 18 Jan 2008
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Location: Los Angeles

PostPosted: Tue Feb 23, 2010 9:59 pm    Post subject: bent leads Reply with quote

Bent leads can be gently tapped flat with a ball peen hammer on a hardwood surface. Rotate the lead as you tap and it will come nice and flat. Let me know if you want to get together at some point.

best Ange
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angelodp
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 23, 2010 10:03 pm    Post subject: heaters Reply with quote

I went with Fender style heaters on my Dlite, but have also done Marshall style on my Tweed amp. In this case it seems that the topology calls for the Fender style. It can be structured off board and pre-fitted before you commit to soldering it in. While it takes a little fussing it goes in pretty easily once the sections are assembled. I can show you this step if you like.
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james21789
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 03, 2010 12:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey everyone,

Thought I'd take a minute and give you guys an update on the process:

These past two weeks I've stripped everything from pots to sockets to boards out of the amp and started fresh. So far I've done everything except for drop in the boards and some more work on the tone pots and switches, and the heaters. I put up one picture so far entitled "fresh build". Please holler if you see any red-flags! more detailed pictures to come.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/44334941@N04/

I was speaking with Angelo the other day, who's been an incredible help these past weeks, and I believe I figured out one of the main reasons my reverb never worked in the past: I was under the impression the the jacks that are the to the right of the OHM selector (facing the front of the amp) were speaker jacks, when apparently they are the effects loop in the reverb retrofit lay out! Not only was I plugging my speaker into an effects loop but I also had the hot from the ohm selector running to the effects loop in attempt to skip the effects loop in my build.

Anyway, I need some more components to finish:

(1) 1uf cap on the pres pot
(2) 22M resistors on v1

Does anyone have any mouser #'s for the parts?

Thanks everyone,

-j
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hydroboy40
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Joined: 12 Apr 2008
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Location: Seattle

PostPosted: Wed Mar 03, 2010 12:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

remove the blue wire nut on the pt wire and if it is not to be used, shrink tube it-wire nuts can fall off at really bad times and a bare wire can really mess up a amp when it shorts to ground
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james21789
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Joined: 10 Jul 2009
Posts: 100

PostPosted: Mon Mar 08, 2010 1:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Took care of the wire cap, thanks for the tip hydroboy. Spent a while this weekend working on the amp before running out of wire. Getting closer!

I posted a few pictures on the flickr.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/44334941@N04/

Will be ordering some more wire today, hopefully it comes in quick!

More later,

-j
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Structo
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Joined: 30 Oct 2007
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 11, 2010 10:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You should make your pictures bigger.
Hard to see any detail.

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james21789
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Joined: 10 Jul 2009
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 12, 2010 4:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry about that, Flickr is rather obnoxious. The pictures are actually rather large, but just a smaller version comes up when you click it. After the initial click on the photo, one can click the magnifying glass above the photo or "download the Large Size", also above the image. I've been having trouble attaching pics directly to the forum, most likely due to their size. If anyone knows of any free image hosting websites that aren't oriented for teenage girls, please let me know.

In other news, I met up with angelo this week and we went over some issues with my amp. We were talking about possibly getting a new PT, seeing as mine came with a large dent in it and I've already clipped half of the leads too short.

Is there a way to test the state of my current PT?
Can anyone recommend a Mercury Magnetics(or superior make) PT for a 44 watt D'lite?

Thank you,

James
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Deric
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Joined: 09 Feb 2007
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 12, 2010 5:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The stock BrownNote PT is good stuff. I don't know of anyone who makes a drop in replacement. The BrownNote chassis has a Vibrolux size cut-out but BrownNote has a beefier transformer custom made.

Dents in transformer end-bells are common and usually no big deal. If the leads are getting too short you can always extend them. Take your time. Trim any loose/frayed edges. Solder on a new lead and heat shrink the connection.

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james21789
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 12, 2010 7:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the input Deric.

When you say "extend [the leads]", do you mean getting similar gauge wire and making a union splice?
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